Introducing Soxiety: Italian-made Socks

Soxiety is a cool, small brand I first heard about a couple of weeks ago. Indochino was just opening one of their successful Traveling Tailor pop-up stores in New York and Soxiety socks were given out as a gift to 500 customers. The socks I saw in the photos looked great, so I decided to reach out and learn more about the young brand. Soxiety agreed to send me some samples for a review, so here we go.

Soxiety stocks a variety of socks in all sizes, colours and styles. There is really an option for every need. You can just buy socks by the pair (from $12), but there are also different sock packs (6 socks, $60) or you can choose from or you can also go for a subscription based model and receive 3 pairs 4 times a year. They have the usual versatile business colours such as black, navy or charcoal, but you can also choose more vibrant colours such as red or green or go for a patterned version.

Materials are great, many socks are made from 100% mercerised cotton lisle, others contain some polyamide and elastane in addition to the cotton. The ones I have certainly feel nice to the touch and I'm curious to see how they will hold up.

A while ago I learned from an Italian friend that Italians tend to laugh about many European businessmen and their short socks. Italian guys prefer them knee length and you can get exactly that at Soxiety if you want to - of course you are not limited to that selection.

I am currently using mine with my Mantorii (sadly, they have closed down a while ago) Brown Suede Desert Boots and think they look great. I am also planning to use the purple pair with my Indochino Essential Charcoal that I am going to review soon.

Are you celebrating National Bow Tie Day?

It's National Bow Tie Day, which is an excellent occasion to revisit this accessory. Apparently, bow ties were invented in the 1700s and started out as scarves. Their popularity changed over the centuries and they are definitely back in style today. Indochino featured them heavily in their latest Modern Dandy Collection and there are a number of nice bow ties available in all styles and fabrics from $39.

Not sure how to tie a bow tie? Check out this excellent illustrated guide on Art of Manliness (a great website, by the way, but I am sure you know that already).  So, who is wearing a bow tie today to celebrate?

Matthew Aperry Suit Review by rnjbond

Info: This info was originally published in the form of a couple of comments by user rnjbond on this article. I have decided to publish it as a small review, thanks rnjbond! I noticed the Matthew Aperry website is basically a cheap copy of Indochino.com, so be a bit careful with them. Feel free to share your Matthew Aperry experience in the comments!

Matthew Aperry:
http://www.matthewaperry.com

Matthew Aperry Pros: 

• Everything can be customized. All my requests were honoured, down to working cuffs with the last thread matching the lining.
• Is fully canvassed and has hand-stitching inside and outside. I took it to my tailor to get his opinion and when I asked about that, he pointed both of these details out.
• $200 price point, which is absurd, considering both the above points.
• Arrived in three weeks and though the website isn't great, the people there are great to deal with.
• Fabric feels fine. Not super soft, but seemed worth it for the $200 price point.

Sounds great, right? Well...

Matthew Aperry Cons:

• The fit was just off. Perhaps if I had properly taken measurements using their system with my tailor, it would have fit better. Too small around the waist (which can always be fixed) and my tailor said the armholes were too tight and it wasn't worth fixing
• The bigger one, the reason I'm returning it and not asking for a remake, has to do with the actual construction. My tailor pointed at the bottom of the jacket, where it curves, and said it's not great, and pointed to a few more details. He recommended that I return it.

All said, Matthew Aperry is a legit company and they did deliver on their promise. But it seems like Matthew Aperry is still learning (and I intend to explain all this to them in hopes of helping them out). If you can get your measurements done better, perhaps it will be nicer. And flaws aside, it's $200 for a fully-customized and fully-canvassed suit. But I think it's too early to go with Matthew Aperry [...].

The Indochino Essential Navy Suit - Indochino's most versatile suit

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A while ago I did a survey to determine the most versatile Indochino Essential Suits. We have enough votes now to announce the winners. As you can see from the chart below, the Essential Navy (--> Review) is the clear winner, convincing more than 37% of all voters. Not surprisingly, the Essential Charcoal is not far behind with around 23%, followed by the Essential Gray (--> Review) and the Essential Blue (it's a rather new addition, nice colour!). 

Electing the Navy Suit as the most versatile does not really come as a surprise - it is generally considered the most essential suit. One of the most controversial suits considered essential and versatile by many men, but frowned upon by style experts is the Black Suit (--> Discussion). I did not count one single vote for it in my poll.

"If you only have one suit in your wardrobe, make it a single-breasted navy wool suit (Menshealth)".

"There is no crisis of sartorial indecision so confounding that it cannot be solved by simply going with the blue suit (Esquire)." 

Indochino Traveling Tailor San Francisco

The Indochino Traveling Tailor is a great chance to get measured in person and check Indochino's product offering. Book an appointment and get a free gift set with a suit purchase. More information on Indochino's website.

Indochino Traveling Tailor

117 Post St.

San Francisco, CA

August 14 - 29

Mon - Fri: 8am to 8pm

Sat: 9am to 8pm 

Sun: 10am to 7pm

The Indochino Modern Dandy Collection - A first look

The Indochino Modern Dandy Collection - Suits from $499 - $699

The Modern Dandy Collection - Indochino's Fall 2013 Collection - was released yesterday containing a number of great pieces and some unexpected new options. The new collection follows the general  elegant and more mature theme set by the reboot of the Essential Collection not too long ago and again impresses with great photography.

The collection consists of a number of new suits in fall fabrics such as tweed or and flannel with a number of the models showcasing the new suits in a double-breasted version with wider peak lapels (available as a special option for the new collection). Prices start at $499 and go up to as much as $699 for the premium fabrics and 3-piece suits.

Outerwear items such as trench coats and peacoats are available again from $399

Exclusively for all blazers you can now also select suede elbow patches in various colours and choose from different button options such as tortoise shell (doesn't sound too animal friendly, does it?) or woven leather.

Indochino didn't stop there and also added a couple of casual shirts to their lineup. You can choose from different options, there is a simple white shirt, but also a gingham, some plaid options and a couple of chambray shirts. Softer collars and cuff interlinings are unique to these more casual shirts. Prices start at $79.

The outerwear section received an update as well with several new trench coats and peacoats added. The new pieces available are similar to the past years in style with some of the coats treated to repel rain. Somehow the peacoats look a little bulky to me, but I'm a big fan of the trench coats - they look timeless and stylish. Available from $399.

Also available are a number of new accessories to complement the outfit, including some completely new items such as flatcaps, suspenders or gloves. Below is an overview and go here for the full selection.

• Herringbone Dandy Flatcaps $6
• Cashmere Lined Leather Gloves $89
• Wool Scarfs $119
• Suspenders $69
• Wool Ties and Bow Ties $49

Overall, the Modern Dandy Collection is definitely one of the strongest collections so far this year. Indochino released the collection early enough to receive the garments in time for the first colder days of September (yes, autumn does come early in some regions). There are some great fabrics and patterns available, with a number of interesting new accessories. I'll take a closer look at some selected items over the next few weeks. 

Go here to see the full line-up including some nicely written editorials.

--> The Indochino Modern Dandy Collection.

Price aside, what's your take on the Dandy Collection? Hit or Miss? Cast your vote on the poll at the right side and leave a comment. 

Would you wear it? The Indochino Black Paisley Shirt

Our in-house paisley design will infuse life into any outfit.

Last week I asked who'd wear the Ultimate Rustic Herringbone Suit  - and as it turns out, it is not as exotic as you may think. I found another treasure for you today, let's see what you guys think about this Black Paisely Shirt. Will you have it "infuse life" into your outfit for $99 or will you pass? 

The Indochino Black Paisley Shirt - Would you wear it?

Indochino End of Season Sale 2013 - Updates

THE ULTIMATE PREMIUM COBALT BLUE & NAVY GINGHAM SHIRT
$129 instead of $169 

THE ULTIMATE PREMIUM ORANGE & WHITE STRIPE SHIRT
$119 instead of $159

The Indochino End of Season page is still worth the occasional visit, with items being added every once in a while. I just checked today and found 2 new shirts have been added, both from their premium line. I'm especially fond of the top item, the gingham shirt - would like great with a more casual outfit. 

Items added are usually not the big sellers, but if you are looking for something a bit out of the ordinary, you may be in for a bargain.  I'll make sure to check back on the Indochino Sales Page every once in a while and will update you with interesting items. 

Why you should not choose a black suit as your first suit

Taken from xdesktopwallpapers.com

I believe a mistake many people make when they start a job (or even later on) is to buy a black suit. Black is so versatile, it must be a good choice for a business suit - right? Except, according to all we know today, it isn't. I'm not one to stick to old traditions, just for the sake of it. However, this is not just a matter of taste, there are some very solid arguments why a black suit is not the best choice for your regular business suit - navy and gray are by far more appropriate choices.

This is not to say a black suit is entirely without use - there are plenty of occasions where a black suit  is not only expected, but can look great if worn right. Some guys wear black suits at their wedding (not in Europe, I think this is only true for US and maybe Canada), black is the traditional colour for suits at a funeral, black suits are also often worn at cocktail or dinner parties.

Some style magazines like GQ or Esquire have a pretty clear stance on black suits, read the quotes below:

Black suits are for waiters, funeral directors, and guys who are on their way to lose in court. If you're not one of those things, don't buy a black suit (Esquire)."

"I also find that in broad daylight, black suits tend to give off a funereal, clerical, Amish, or possibly satanic vibe (GQ)."

The Indochino Essential Black Suit - $449

Why is it still such a widely discussed topic on the internet? I am conducting a survey to find the most versatile Indochino Essential Suit at the moment and I can already tell that must of the participants and readers of this blog are not exactly fans of black suits. Still, you will find hundreds of forum threads on this topic, but the arguments largely remain the same. Here are the most valid ones summed up.

• Black suits are difficult to wear with colours - you are very limited when it comes to shirts and ties. A simple white Oxford Shirt and a Black Tie work best. 
• Want to wear a black suit with brown shoes? Forget it, black shoes are the only option. 
• Black is traditionally reserved for funerals and evening wear, as mentioned above.
• "There is hardly anything you can do with a black suit that you can't do with a dark navy or a charcoal suit (PutThisOn)".
• Navy and gray suits are just more versatile.
• Black tends to look bad in a very sunny environment or brightly lit areas.
• Often doesn't make your skin look well.

List inspired by this post on Styleforum and this article on PutThisOn.

So what are the alternatives? Navy, charcoal and a lighter shade of gray come to mind immediately. Check out the Indochino Essential Collection for inspiration. And of course, should you still need a black suit, you can get one for $449 at Indochino too.

What about you - do you own a black suit and what are the occasions you use it for? Maybe the world is not as black & white as most magazines want to make us believe? My girlfriend sure thinks men in black suits can look great and doesn't like my negative stance on the subject...

Indochino Burgundy Suit - with short pants

I just found this guy wearing the Indochino Burgundy Suit (still available for $429, 52% wool and 48% linen) with short pants. Anyone every ordered a short pants from Indochino? I assume he either just had them shortened or already ordered them with the desired length. What do you think - good or bad? Comment below!

Cast your vote: What is the most versatile Indochino Essential Suit?

At the beginning of every career there is an empty wardrobe. Maybe it will contain the odd suit you bought years ago and that doesn't really fit well. If you had to recommend the most versatile suit, the one that should be bought first, what would you choose? Hard choice, but I think I'd go for a Navy suit.

Cast your vote, statistics to be released as soon as we have reached 100 participants.

Step 1: Check the Essential Collection and find your favourite: The Indochino Essential Collection

Step 2: Cast your vote below

Would you wear it? The Indochino Ultimate Rustic Orange Herringbone Suit

Ok, so we obviously know Indochino is covering the basics with their Essential Collection. But what about those who are looking for something really special? Looking at the suits available at the moment, there is one that stands out - the Ultimate Rustic Orange Herringbone Suit. 100% wool, Super 110 fabric, 275g/m2 weight - nothing surprising from the hard facts, but the colour is special for sure. Here is what Indochino thinks about it:

"Classic with an edge, The Ultimate Rustic Orange Herringbone Suit is very wearable while making a strong sartorial statement" (taken from Indochino.com). 

A search on Google mostly reveals novelty items and a video of British PM in an orange suit. It goes without saying, an orange suit is not as popular as your navy or charcoal. 

There is only one really good example of someone wearing an orange suit I could find - Bradley Cooper. Check the picture below he actually looks pretty good - of course also because the fit on his suit is absolutely great. He is also one of the few guys who really gets the look without tie right. 

The other image I found is from a guy in Milano - where else - but I like his bright orange suit considerably less.

So what do you think? Would you buy it for $429 and give it a try? Maybe it will just show up in the sales section once, wouldn't be the first special suit to receive a considerable markdown. 

Taken from http://luzmh.tumblr.com/post/51086322815
Indochino Orange Suit $429

Taken from http://www.trashness.com/orange-suit-at-milano-moda-uomo
Indochino Orange Suit $429

iShoe by iTailor Review - Custom shoes for just $129

Ever since Mantorii stopped taking orders at the end of June, I have been on the lookout for other companies doing custom shoes online. I stumbled across iShoe by iTailor (the names, I know...) on their Facebook website. iTailor is part of a bigger company, doing mainly uniforms for the hospitality industry and iTailor is their online MTM spin-off.

To be honest, I never tried iTailor before, because their style doesn't appeal to me. Yes, it's incredibly affordable with shirts from $20, and you can customise it all to your wishes, but it's not for me. 

It's for some reason not easy to find on their main website, but iTailor does shoes as well - for an unbelievable €99 ($129 I think) a pair plus shipping. They have a fully functional configurator that lets you choose first from different options such as Derby, Oxfords, Monks, Loafers and more. In the next steps, you can select your upper and sole leather (or other sole options), different style such as broguing and stitching - you can even mix and match the upper leather and create a unique shoe for yourself. I could swear I had the option to select the toe style, but I can't find it anymore. 

You give them your size by measuring the length and width of your feet and by supplying them with your standard shoe size. I assume they will then determine the best size for your fit; I am sure for the price they won't create or adapt a last for you. Check the photos on iTailor's Facebook stream.

As you can see, there are some very strange designs. iTailor doesn't give their users many guidelines on style, but they give you a ton of customization options to play. The results are hideous in 90% of the cases in my opinion because people tend to think a shoe made of 5 different leather colours makes them unique and stand out of the crowd - I'm sure it does, but I don't know if in a positive way. To each their own and I don't want to be overly judgemental now.

What makes a good shoe?

In my opinion, it's fit, price, construction, design (last used, product design) and leather quality - not necessarily in that order, but those are the main factors for me. Let's see how iTailor's $129 shoes perform. 

The Good

The fit is great on my pair. Not too tight, not too loose - nothing to complain here, these shoes fit like a glove. The price is if course great too, it's hard to argue with €99/$129. There is no online or offline competition for a customizable shoe at this price. There are also no scratches on the leather, no chemical stains - all done very nicely and neatly. The shape is classic with a rounded toe.

The Bad

The shoes just don't feel all that great. I know, I shouldn't be too critical for a $129 shoe, but I just feel better spending $200-$300 on a proper shoe. The design is a bit awkward, for example, I didn't manage to find the option to place a medallion on my toe. You can select several heel designs, but you can't see what it is you are changing on the website. Many of the basic designs you can choose from look a bit outdated, similar to what I see many people wearing here in Asia. In a nutshell - and I am aware this may sound harsh - the product lacks a bit in style and class. 

The shoes are also apparently glued - not a surprise, considering the price point, but just as with fused suits, glued shoes are just not a sign of good quality. 

The Ugly

My biggest problem with the shoes is the leather quality. It is bad. It feels absolutely like plastic. I'm sure it's (some) leather as they claim, but there is nothing "premium" about it. It's a heavily corrected and polished leather. I tried applying some polish to give it a darker shade, but no polish would stick to these shoes - it just rubs off the leather as if you'd apply it on plastic. That of course also means that the shoes won't break in nicely and will have a lifeless and artificial look. 

tl;dr

For just $129 (plus shipping) iTailor offers you to customise your shoe fully - possibilities are almost unlimited. At this price, the concept it without competition. Furthermore, the shoes just fit very well. On the downside, significant improvements are needed regarding leather quality (feels like plastic) and construction (shoes are glued). The overall product lacks style. A good choice if you are looking for a unique shoe and you are aware of the constraints. I recommend choosing another brand if you are looking for a classic and durable pair suitable for business.

iTailor iShoe Oxfords Reviewed by Lorenz Loidl. Rated: 3/10 (Poor). Cheap, but not worth your money. Lacks in quality and design.