Coupon available - get 15% off your next Indochino order!

Hi guys,

Just stumbled across a post on the Red Flag Deals Forum, a coupon is available atm that gives you 15% off your purchase at Indochino. No idea how long it will work though!

Coupon: couponmountain


Update 01/06/2010: the coupon has expired, but I found another one: "couponsnapshot" gives you 10% discount - better than nothing, right?

Best,
Lorenz

Weekly Link Collection - Week 21

How to Build Your Wardrobe: Part II

http://artofmanliness.com/2010/05/13/how-to-build-your-wardrobe-2/

I had posted about Part I a while ago, finally Part II of this great series is available too. Covered is everything from suits, shirts to shoes and jeans.

Six No-no's for a Suited Man

http://www.primermagazine.com/2010/learn/six-no-nos-for-a-suited-man

Everything you shouldn't do from riding a razor to using white socks or sporty sunglasses. I'm quite sure the guy pictured above believes he's the coolest guy in his office...

Exile on Main Street

http://itunes.apple.com/gb/album/exile-on-main-street/id368966968

A masterpiece by one of the best bands on this earth, now available remastered and with bonus tracks. It's just a must have and when you have time, check out some photos from Dominique Tarlé who captured The Rolling Stones during their most stylish period.

Shotgun Wedding

http://www.uncrate.com/men/style/garb/garb-shotgun-wedding/

Essential for a summer wedding, most of it from Billy Reid and I really like the choices. The linen/cotton suit pictured above reminds me of the Indochino Montechristo suit I've been thinking about. The tie is similar to the one I got from Berg & Berg (for tall guys, be careful, they have that special neck piece and if you are tall like me, the tie will be too short or if you tie it longer, the neck piece won't be where it belongs). I really like the knife too and it's an Accessoire I'm still missing...

 

Indochino Blueprint Collection

The Indochino Blueprint Collection is the latest  addition to the Indochino suits and shirts lineup. In contrary to the past collections that focused  mainly on business and classic outfits, the Blueprint items are more fashion forward and daring.

A great inspiration clearly and admittedly was Etro (lining, coloured collar felts) and Paul Smith. As a little goodie, fitting pocket squares are included with each suit. One a couple of suits the Etro idea is nicely and convincingly implemented. A personal favourite of mine is the "Blueprint Windowpane" suit, featuring an orange collar felt and paisley lining together with brown buttonholes.

The coloured collar felts

One of the new linings

Some other suits are less to my taste, especially those containing polyester and very bright blue and flashy lining...but to each their own.

In the updated Stylebook I believe they also "nicked" an idea from Dennis Cahlo (or rather, as "Foster" informed me, from The Satorialist), who not so long ago suggested to use the functional boutonnière for earphones and the ticket pocket for mp3 players. Gotta learn from the best, right?

Stylebook suggestions

Dennis Cahlo's suggestion

Overall, the new collection adds a couple of great new styles and and exciting suits. I guess only time will tell if the improvements in shoulder style and suit construction were indeed implemented, as promised in the interview a while ago.

http://www.indochino.com/blueprint/index.html

Biased Cut Shirt Review

Quite a while ago, in April, I wrote about online MTM shirt makers and a custom shirt review on Magnificent Bastard. Out of 7 shirt makers, Biased Cut landed on first place and impressed with the great fit and quality. There is also a review on Sartorially Inclined you might want to check out for additional information. As I was looking for a good source of affordable and well fitting shirts, I got in contact with one of their founders, Eric, and he was so kind to send me one of their Blue Gingham shirts (now out of stock!) to do my own Biased Cut review. I believe it was one of their first shipments outside the US, but everything went smooth and quick (International shipments are not officially available yet, but the guys from Biased Cut are very helpful and will be glad to arrange something for you!).

Biased Cut shirt unboxed

The website is simple yet stylish and the custom options are kept to a minimum compared to other MTM shirt makers. This is not without a good reason - I asked Eric from Biased Cut about what makes Biased Cut different from other MTM online vendors and here is his answer:

We view ourselves first and foremost as shirt designers, rather than simply a custom fitting shirt shop. The fit and other customizations are an extra benefit due to our made to order process, and they allow us to cater to a larger group of guys (and recently, girls). Rather than overwhelming customers with thousands of possible shirt combinations, we aim to keep it short and simple.  Of course, if customers want a customization that our website doesn't offer, we're able to accommodate them.  Additionally, we think we have a pretty good combination of quality, fit, and price - we want to keep the shirts as affordable as possible while making no sacrifice in quality.

Ordering is pretty straight forward, you input your measurements (body measurements, measure your favourite shirt or just select a traditional size), choose your design and options and order. I guess the part with the measurements will still be perceived a bit risky by many, but in my experience it turns out well in most cases, at least for shirts. Prices are very affordable and fair with 85$ and if you order these days, you will even get a 20$ discount. Shipping within the US amounts to 5$, international shipping rates are available on request. For these prices, I believe online MTM shirts might just replace OTR shirts completely for people who care about the fit - I certainly don't see any reason to shell out 120$ for a Boss slim fit shirt that is not long enough...

I asked Eric about return rates and customer satisfaction and he confirms that a vast majority of customers are happy with the shirts:

We are proud to say we haven't actually had any returned shirts.  While it's been rare, there have been times when the customer wasn't completely satisfied with the fit.  In this case, no matter the cause, we take care of customers on an individual basis until they are satisfied.  On the other end, we've seen a lot of repeat customers - we get a lot of good feedback and some guys are coming back for more and buying in bulk.  That's one of our biggest goals - nothing says that you're doing something right better than repeat business.

Back to the shirt, the one I received indeed looks very nice. The sewing is impeccable, there are no loose threads, the button holes are very nicely done, the buttons are sewn rock solid and the button material (mother of pearl) appears to be of a very high quality. The monogram is actually positioned very interestingly, at "the top end of the placket at the elbow/forearm area".

The Monogram

The only slightly negative aspect that I can observe is the shirt length. I have a very long upper body and rather short legs for my height, so I need my shirts to be quite long in order not to untuck. While the shirt is long enough, I would feel a bit more secure with an extra inch of length - but then again, I may should have made that more clear when I input my measurements. One more positive aspect is also the collar - it is really sturdy and keeps its shape nicely, without being too rough to your neck.

The (slim) fit

Compared to, for example the Indochino shirts, it has a more slim fit but leaves enough room for moving without restrictions. While the Gingham shirt I opted for might be too bold for a more conservative working environment, it does a great job as a shirt for "play". In the photos I just combined it with a pair of jeans, but it I wore it today with some khaki pants and brown shoes at work and I think it looked great too.

Overall, my experience with Biased Cut is very positive and I am looking forward to their upcoming releases and projects.  According to Eric, we can expect some cool things:

In the very near term, we're focusing on improving our website and measurement / order process - it should be as painless as possible. We've received a lot of helpful feedback over the last few months since our launch in December and we're excited to put some new ideas to work. Product wise, we have a few more designs coming out this month in time for the summer season, and we'll be updating with new shirts even more frequently throughout the year. In addition to the classic looks, we'll be building up our casual wear shirts as well.  We're really going to express the versatility of our products.

I am looking forward to the new designs, the shirt really impressed me and I am certainly going to purchase from them in the future.

http://biasedcut.com/

Upcoming Indochino Spring Collection!

You probably got it in your mailbox via the newsletter too - a new spring collection is about to be released on May 20. The first photos seem to indicate new and more daring linings, different shirt designs and overall more bold design statements. 3 Photos have been released so far, you can check them right here.

Weekly Link Collection

A special shoe week

http://www.valetmag.com/the-mix/051210.php?index1_top_lead

Valet is running a special on affordable shoes under 100$ and has some great suggestions. A new shoe style will be featured every day until Friday.

Furthermore, Uncrate also had a small article about SeaVee Desert Boots and they look really good!

Tailor Stitch - Custom shirt review

http://www.unabashedlyprep.com/site/taylor-stitch/

How many of those MTM shirt makers are there? I seem to discover a new one every week. The one reviewed in the link above seems quite cool and worth a try. By the way, I have just received my shirt from Biased Cut and will review it as soon as I get a chance. The important part: it fits great.

Alexander West - Custom shirt review

http://www.thechoosybeggar.com/2010/05/hands-on-alexander-west

Yes, yet another MTM shirt maker - I had come across the brand before and they seem to be one of the a bit more expensive ones (of course, still very affordable compared to shirts from most local tailors).  

Güs Wallets
http://gusstyle.com/clipcase.html

I'm always looking for slim wallets (I hate bulky wallets, where on earth do people put them?) and I think I found a really good and stylish one now - including a money clip! 90$ is probably not cheap, but they look great.

the plans for this blog

Dear readers,

I've been thinking a bit about both short-term plans and the medium-term future of my blog.

My main aim is to provide quality, not quantity. As my blog occupies a rather small niche, (Indochino) I cannot post something relevant every second day. However, I have established 4 topics so far that prove to be of interest for many people every day. They are currently highlighted with pics on the right  side of the screen and I will keep them there to be easily accessible.

The ultimate guide to the perfect Indochino suit

I will update this guide regulary and twitter the updates. I'll also be adding some graphic indicator on the pic so you can see right away if there is anything new. Judging from the Exit Links on my blog, many of you are interested in coupons, so I'll make sure to stay informed on if there are any working ones.

Kyle Vucko Interview
Not much I could update on this one, but I think it is a good addition to the Guide and a very interesting read, not only for the first time visitors. You can always send me new questions, as soon as I have enough or  there is a need to address a specific issue, I can get in contact with Indochino again and see if I get an answer.

Navy Blue Suit Review
Honestly not quite the best review you can find on the net, but a recent & decent one and I believe also a helpful one. Stay tuned for more personal reviews, I'll be ordering again in a couple of weeks.

Indochino suit construction
One other topic that I believe to be very interesting is the special on suit construction. I am currently waiting to hear back from Indochino on some questions and will then further update the article.

In addition to these established topics I want to keep those of you who are regular readers happy. I will continue to collect Indochino info, news, reviews etc. on the web and make it available on the blog. If some of you have a quick review - and even if it's only 2 sentences, I'd like to feature them in a special section on my blog, under User Reviews. This will be similar to the Testimonials on the Indochino website, but also include the less flattering reviews.

Links, reviews and special features about fashion items once a week.
I do not like blogs that basically throw links at their readers every day, but fail to provide quality by doing so. However, as I have a daily routine of scanning blogs such as Gear Patrol, Uncrate, Valet Mag and many more, I think a weekly info may very well be interesting and I want to share those discoveries with you in a weekly Wednesday feature.

One more thing, I'm waiting for my Biased Cut  shirt to arrive and will review it on the blog of course!

Well, that's it for now - I hope these plans will make you come back and enjoy my blog! I'm open for all suggestions and don't hesitate to contact me with any inquiries you might have.

Have a great week,
Lorenz

Indochino suit construction - canvassed, half-canvassed or fused?

Indochino Suit Constuction
Updated: July 2016

From the very start of Indochino There has been quite some discussion on whether Indochino suits are fully canvassed, fused, or even a mix of both. First of all, let's shed some light on the different terms and see why this topic matters.

According to an article on Art Of Manliness, the quality of a suit is not necessarily determined by its price, it is the construction of the suit that really makes the difference. The term canvassed basically describes a layer of canvas (e.g. wool, horse or camel hair) between the wool (or whatever material the suit is made of) on the outside and the lining on the inside.

The canvas is cut to your body shape and the wool is stitched (by hand or machine, thanks JeffreyD for clarifying) to the canvas. As you wear the jacket, the canvas conforms to your body's shape, creating an excellent fit. 

Fused jackets on the other hand are constructed in a cheaper way. Instead of a high quality canvas, a fusible interlining is glued to the suit. This generally fulfils the same job, it keeps the jacket's shape, but it can also look rather unnatural and appear stiff. I remember buying an H&M suit years ago that felt like it's made of thick paper, I guess that was fused... Fusing technology has improved significantly in the past years, but there might still be problems if you bring your suit do the dry cleaners regularly. The glue might dissolve and “bubbles” form on the suit – an effect that cannot be repaired and actually makes the suit unwearable.

There is also a third possibility, namely half-canvassed suits. These have canvas around the chest and lapel of the suit, but use fusing for the rest of the suit. Having the canvas on top means you most likely won't have problems with bubbles and the suit is still rather cheap to produce for the manufacturer.

Indochino originally stated to have fused & stitched interlining, according to the terminology established above, this would correspond (mostly) to half-canvassed suits. In 2010, a bespoke tailor by the username of JeffreyD on StyleForum (Blog: made by hand - the great sartorial debate) voiced some criticism concerning certain construction details (no canvas in the lapels).

Indochino was quick to improve following expert feedback and improved. The method used until 2012 was a unique method, similar to a half-canvas construction, but using both fusing and canvassing.

In 2012, Indochino's construction was updated again, the graphics now reveal more details on the process. Since 2013, Indochino officially labels their suits as half-canvassed.

@indochinoreview Confirmed. Our suits are half canvassed.

— Indochino (@indochino) July 9, 2013

Indochino just confirmed this very important fact via Twitter, their suits nowf all feature true half-canvas  construction.

To sum up: Suit construction is an important factor influencing the drape and durability of suits with the highest quality suits being fully canvassed and the cheapest suits being fused (can lead to bubbling, feels stiff). Half-canvassing is a more cost effective solution providing excellent value for money.

I also talked to Jeffery Diduch, bespoke tailor and blogger and he confirmed Indochino's suits have been upgraded considerably and are now proper half-canvas.

Go here to read more about Indochino suits and learn about the quality and craftsmanship.

- by Lorenz Loidl

Indochino Teacher's Jacket available again

Teacher's Jacket

Update 07/05/2010: As one of my Twitter followers noticed, the new jacket is a bit different from the old one. Can you spot the difference?

The old Teacher's Jacket

The new Teacher's Jacket

A case for Indochino coupons by Michael Rivero

Note: if you came here via Google search, please note that this post is from 2010. However, we are in a similar situation now in 2011, so this post might still be of interest to you. If you are looking for Indochino coupons, please check here.

Many of you might have noticed that most, if not all, coupons for Indochino do not work anymore. One of the reasons is the high order intake Indochino is experiencing at the moment. Thus, they currently do not feel the need to issue anymore coupons to stimulate their business. Many people have based their Indochino purchases on the availability of coupons and Michael Rivero has written up a great piece on why  he believes coupons are actually very usueful and much needed. Read on for the full story!

A case for Indochino coupons

Michael Rivero

I recently placed an order for a blazer and some other items (which I'm incredibly excited for) and wanted to share a concern I have and a possible suggestion.

I have had the three piece charcoal suit along with a french cuffed white shirt, cuff links, and a pink tie in my shopping cart since the day after I ordered my blazer. I was waiting to check out, however, because I wanted to make sure any corrected measurements from my blazer were submitted to my profile before ordering a full suit, to cut down on any avoidable alterations. I found the coupon code SAVINGS, which gave one free shirt and two free accessories with every suit purchase and thought it was a fantastic strategy on Indochino's part.

Unfortunately, I see now that this code has been deactivated. I've been following IndochinoReview and there it was discussed that due to Indochino's surge of success, coupon codes aren't really necessary and have been deactivated. And while I agree to an extent, I think they address a certain type of customer that you may not acquire otherwise.

I'm currently a law student, about to graduate this May and begin studying for the bar and applying to law firms, and am now in the position of needing to upgrade my wardrobe as I enter the professional world. The problem is that I must do so with a limited budget. I don't own cuff links and up until this point, I bought all of my clothes off the rack. So every shirt in my closet is button cuffed and too long, too short, too small in the neck, or has some other issue. So along with a suit, I would need a french cuffed shirt and also cuff links for the shirt. This necessary element of the purchase increases the barrier for entry for anyone who, like me, does not already own any of the necessary pieces of a sophisticated wardrobe.

The great part about the coupon code was that I knew that for my first suit, I would be able to get not just the suit itself, but a shirt that would show the perfect amount of cuff with my suit, cuff links to keep it in place, and a silk tie that completed the ensemble and made me look like a professional, not a college student.

Even if universally offering the code is not feasible, I think there is at least something to be said for offering it as a one-time discount to a customer for their first suit, that way they know that they will always have a pair of cuff links and an elegant silk tie to match with their suit or shirt and then have no qualms purchasing more french cuffed shirts, blazers, overcoats, or additional suits without feeling the added pressure of needing to purchase these other accessories in order to consummate the transaction.

Either way, I still plan on purchasing my suit. It's just that I have friends and classmates in similar positions who are looking for their first truly professional suit for job interviews or for trial that may not see the value in having to purchase everything up front. I may certainly win them over when they see me wearing the pieces,

As an aside, LexisNexis, the legal research tool provided to law students, is partnered with Brooks Brothers to give law students a 15% discount on all clothes, including suits, ties, and shirts. Even after the discount, an Indochino suit is still the better price (and value), and I appreciate it.

Kiva Microloans

Dear readers,

I have been thinking about the prices of clothes, the sustainability of purchasing from a company that manufactures in Asia and working conditions of the people there. As you might have read in my Interview with Kyle Vucko, I very specifically asked him about the working conditions of Indochino tailors. Clearly, Indochino has been thinking about this question as well and they do provide wages and working conditions above the norm. 

For quite some time I have been active for an organization named Kiva. What Kiva essentially does is to connect people from developing countries with a business idea and needs for loans, with other people from all over the world, who are willing to lend money to them.

Kiva empowers individuals to lend to an entrepreneur across the globe. By combining microfinance with the internet, Kiva is creating a global community of people connected through lending. (kiva.org)

I have added one of their banners to my blog and I have already donated. I have decided to focus on women working in the clothing industry in Asia. I will donate 25$ to this area every month and it would be great if you could consider donating as well. Perhaps every time you buy an Indochino suit, 25$ could go to a Kiva member. It's a small sum for us and it makes a great difference for someone. You can read all about Kiva on their website: http://www.kiva.org/

Update: What I forgot to say, of course the loan gets repaid to you, so in most cases (some loans default) you are not losing any money.

Thank you very much for taking the time to read this and for considering,

best,

Lorenz